Diving into Martinique

“Tu es costeau?” Willie asked. Costeau means strong or robust in French. I nodded a little dubiously and he strapped an oxygen tank to my back. When I tried to stand, I nearly toppled over. Costeau? Maybe not. We were at Papa D’lo in Saint Pierre, a scuba diving club that offers “baptèmes” or initiations…

When the Fog Parts on Montagne Pelée

The skies were ominously dark, the clouds gray and heavy. The mountain hid behind thick layers of fog. Still, we were determined to persevere. We had driven all the way to Montagne Pelée and we weren’t about to turn back now. It was the day after Thanksgiving (which I celebrated on Saturday with some of…

Il Etait Un Petit Navire: Kayaking Adventures

Le Monnerot is the type of road that you would normally just drive past without a second thought. Unpaved and bumpy, with construction signs that almost beg for you to turn around, this road seemed ominous, to say the least. As the proud new owner of a not-so-new 1999 Renault Twingo, the thought going through…

Swimming in a Waterfall

We wanted to visit a waterfall. We were not entirely sure which one, but we knew the waterfalls in Dominica were famous because you could swim beneath them in clear, fresh water—a strange rarity in the Caribbean where water is in abundance but most of it is salty. We asked our waitress how to get…

At the End of the Road in Martinique: Anse Couleuvre

The road stops at Anse Couleuvre. Literally. The road going North and South that starts out as a highway from Fort-de-France ends up as a winding path around the hills at Anse Couleuvre. This is a place so far in the boondocks that Corentin exclaimed in surprise, “They have electricity here?!” when he saw the…