Diving into Martinique

“Tu es costeau?” Willie asked. Costeau means strong or robust in French. I nodded a little dubiously and he strapped an oxygen tank to my back. When I tried to stand, I nearly toppled over. Costeau? Maybe not. We were at Papa D’lo in Saint Pierre, a scuba diving club that offers “baptèmes” or initiations…

Canal des Esclaves

The Canal de Beauregard, also known as the Canal des Esclaves, is a narrow path that snakes around the hills between Carbet and Fond St. Denis in the north of Martinique. In Fond St. Denis, the road is marked but not very clearly. Coming from Saint Pierre, you will pass a church and then turn…

Saint Pierre: A City Rising From Ruins

Saint Pierre is a city built around the ruins of the devastating 1902 volcanic eruption of Mont Pelée. Interwoven with the modern city are the ruins of the old theater and prison, of small houses and the facades of great churches. In order to understand just how much the eruption has influenced the face and…