Chez Leyla: Sunday Lunch in Martinique

My little Twingo huffed and puffed its way up the windy roads of the Montagne de Vauclin this past Sunday. We climbed until it seemed like we could climb no further, and then turned into a small courtyard surrounded by three houses. My friend Leyla led us through her house onto a porch that overlooks…

But It’s Not Even Thanksgiving Yet

I can hear the music as we approach, the crowd gathering on the street and filtering into the courtyard behind the Vauclin middle school. It’s dark out, a little after nine, but the lights and the music show the way. The beat rumbles loudly over the speakers. The man beats his bamboo drum, a feature…